Surfing: The Ultimate Guide
αα»αααα 2011 Β· Bloomsbury Publishing USA
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This guide showcases the world of extreme surfing, describing the unique culture associated with this daredevil's sport, providing insights into what makes the top riders tick, explaining the science of big waves, and more.
"The Pipeline" in O'ahu, Hawaii. "Maverick's Point" in northern California. "Ours" near Sydney, Australia. All over the world, extreme surfers risk severe injury or even death from riptides, shark attacks, and collisions with the seabed itself, just to experience the ultimate high from tacklingβand triumphing overβone of the most powerful forces on earth.
Surfing: The Ultimate Guide explains the culture of extreme surfingβincluding the often violent "locals only" mentalityβand analyzes the dangers involved in riding the world's biggest and most ferocious waves. The author examines the history of extreme surfing, including past and contemporary heroes; the science of giant waves; the technical criteria for riding them; and the future of big-wave riding.
"The Pipeline" in O'ahu, Hawaii. "Maverick's Point" in northern California. "Ours" near Sydney, Australia. All over the world, extreme surfers risk severe injury or even death from riptides, shark attacks, and collisions with the seabed itself, just to experience the ultimate high from tacklingβand triumphing overβone of the most powerful forces on earth.
Surfing: The Ultimate Guide explains the culture of extreme surfingβincluding the often violent "locals only" mentalityβand analyzes the dangers involved in riding the world's biggest and most ferocious waves. The author examines the history of extreme surfing, including past and contemporary heroes; the science of giant waves; the technical criteria for riding them; and the future of big-wave riding.
α’αααΈβα’ααααα·αααα
Douglas Booth is professor of sports studies and dean of the School of Physical Education at The University of Otago, New Zealand.
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